paint to use on wooden furniture
A multitude of primer / top coat combinations
Professional decorators are constantly having to adjust specifications to suit particular (sometimes peculiar) situations. There are perennial repeat questions and debates over best paint to use on wooden furniture.
Only read this if you have a good grasp of what is on the market and hat constitutes correct preparation. If you have little decorating experience or you are undertaking a DIY project, you should stick to the basic suggestions.
The following combinations of primer, undercoats and topcoats give good results. If you are in the trade it should make sense.
For primers on ANY surface – requiring nominal preparation
a) Zinsser B-I-N shellac based primer, followed by any water-based or oil-based system or
b) Blackfriars Problem-Solving water-based primer, followed by any water-based or oil-based system
c) Mythic Multi Purpose Primer followed by any water-based or oil-based system
(Wax is the fly in the ointment surface here. The recommended approach if using BIN or BFPS Primer or any “conventional” high adhesion stain blocking primer, is that wax should be removed. Quite easy with
Krudkutter Original.Update: this has been discontinued, this eco degreaser is well worth trying instead – equally effective for a much more economical price too.
For nominal / no preparation, wax can definitely be over-painted with chalk paint – in fact chalk paint with no prep, adheres to wax, varnish, paint, glass…)
For priming lacquered or varnished wood surfaces – with THOROUGH PREPARATION – I have successfully used
a) Zinsser Cover Stain oil-based primer, followed by any water-based or oil-based system
b) Dulux Supergrip water-based primer followed by oil-based system only
For priming lacquered or varnished wood surfaces – with VERY THOROUGH PREPARATION – I have successfully used
Zinsser Bullseye water-based primer, followed by any water-based or oil-based system
In all these cases, I would seal knots with Zinsser B-I-N aerosol before priming with Coverstain, or after priming with Supergrip or Bullseye
Once the surface has been primed, there are a couple of alternative ways to achieve a satin / eggshell finish
a -1 coat of Little Greene oil primer undercoat or (acrylic primer undercoat) plus 2 coats of Little Greene oil eggshell or 2 coats of Sikkens Satura oil-based topcoat (Sikkens is high specification paint that has been years ahead of Dulux – and are now in the same stable as Dulux!)
b – Dulux, Crown, other modern paint companies – oil based undercoat plus 2 coats of oil based eggshell or 3 x eggshell. (Dulux Satinwood goes on very shiny, but does dull down to a similar sheen to eggshell after a few weeks.) These have more sheen than the “posh” paints oil eggshell.
c – 1 coat of Zinsser Coverstain plus 2 coats of Fired Earth acrylic eggshell, Mythic acrylic latex eggshell or semi gloss. Farrow and Ball acrylic Estate Eggshell seems to work when applied direct over a surface that has been sanded, and coated with a deglosser fluid (See Fluxaf Pro Clean applied neat) or Owatrol ESP). Other approaches have met with varying success, but as yet, I have not had any upset reports about unreliable F&B estate eggshell drying as discussed here etc.
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