Owatrol Deks Olje d1 saturating oil and D2
Owatrol are an associate of the Traditional Painter Trade Corner and the core ingredient to their range is a mysterious product, Owatrol oil. Suffice to say Owatrol oil ensures that the exotic sounding Deks Olje D1 saturating oil does what it says on the tin
Don’t ask what Owatrol oil is, exactly, as you won’t get an answer! Could it be based on fish oil, the preservative of legend that Rustoleum also have been known to mention now and again?
The Owatrol penetrates and preserves. In this case, Deks Olje D1 saturating oil does what it says on the tin, applied wet on wet, 15-30 minutes between coats, it penetrates below the surface of hardwoods, filling the pores from below, till it saturates and spills out onto the surface, pooling. Wipe off excess and leave to dry. There is no topcoat on the surface to peel or crack.
Used in this way, it gives an almost teak-like oily property to hardwood!
I am not sure if it is required on teak, though, as it is a naturally extremely oily timber below the surface. It certainly wouldn’t hurt and the D1 would not make it slippy.
Teak is naturally ridged, which provides grip underfoot, if left au natural. The worse thing you could do is put aesthetics first and sand teak smooth and coat with a finish.
Deks Olje d2
This is the glossy version of D1, so definitely not a good idea on watery decks!
On new work, you would prepare the timber as above with D1, leave for 3 days to dry and then start with the D2 system, which is a 6 coat system for topsides woodwork.
Further reading on finishes for timber
There is a lot of info on assorted marine type varnishes and coatings over on the forum I didn’t see mention of the Deks Olje 2 in the results.
As a rule, it is always best to be early on maintenance in extreme (weather) conditions, rather than push limits and have to deal with failures. This would make the Deks Olje 1 in particular a very useful product to keep around, being so simple to apply.
There was a question from a reader about comparing Deks Olje 1 with Polyvine Dead Flat varnish for use on oak veneer doors and frames.
Being dead flat, I suspect the products’ finish would look the same.
I would suggest that the two products work differently. The saturating oil nourishes the timber from below, it is oil based too, and takes time to dry off before use. The waterborne acrylic varnish is a coating which dries fast and is ready for use same day.
I am not sure I would use acrylic varnish on a worktop. And probably wouldn’t opt for Deks Olje on door frames.
Veneer and oil based product
When dealing with planking, it is unlikely that a saturating oil will get right through. However, there is a big point to be aware of when treating oak veneered doors, the thickness of veneer. If super thin, and the glues are “weak” they can be affected by oil based products penetrating below the veneer. There is a good discussion here which gets to the bottom of every painter’s worse nightmare – read the door manufacturer’s label, just to be sure you use the right product.
I think the over riding point is that there are a number of proven clear timber performers on the market, and selecting the “best” is often a case of picking from any one of 3 or 4.
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