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Materials for hand-painting a kitchen

Listed under Blog, hand-painted kitchen, Masking tape Posted Sep 14 2011

Compared to most aspects of decorating, there isn’t a lot of bulky kit and equipment needed for this very labour intensive task.

For preparing the workspace, I use masking tape and lining paper. To keep it quick, a tape dispenser is essential, preferably one for each type of tape used.

For cleaning down the grubbiest cabinets, I use a bucket plus rubber sanding block, sponge and automotive wet ‘n dry abrasives.

Once the preparation has been done, it is time to prime and paint and sand and fill and paint and sand some more. These are the sort of products I use when aiming for an oil based eggshell finish.

and that is it. Add in a good vacuum cleaner and that is most of the kitchen painter’s armoury revealed.

Just need to use it all properly and efficiently and you can transform any kitchen or pine dresser….

If using water-based eggshell, it is almost the same kit, except you substitute the Owatrol for Floetrol paint conditioner to help remove brush marks, and you wash your brushes clean every night, so you don’t need a brush keeper vapour box.



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3 comments to “Materials for hand-painting a kitchen”

  1. Sue crawley

    Hi

    I’m wanting to paint my kitchen cupboards, they are solid
    Pine and the carcass is laminated, melamine I suppose?

    I rent my cottage so dont want to spend a fortune on paints, please could you advise me which are the best paints to use as I’ve looked at lots of websites showing how to do the job but they never actually tell you which paints to use!,

    I did look at chalk paint but decided against it as I read you have to re apply oil a lot when cleaning it and this would get on my nerves.

    I’ve come across Neptune paint and mystic paint, any good?

    Any advice and tips welcome.

    Regards

    Sue ????

  2. Margaret

    Hi, I didn’t want shiny paint all around the kitchen so I did the sloping ceiling (under that is the sink/cooker etc) and the rest with matt finish. I soon discovered after the first coat had dried that wiping off an accidental mark took off the matt paint I had just applied. Is there a clear, preferably matt finish laminate solution I could paint on over the matt paint? Years ago a friend of mine used a product like that on his worktops and said it gave a great hard-wearing and indestructible finish. If not what is the best solution? Both the silk and matt finishes are Johnstons and are water based.

  3. Andy Crichton Andy Crichton

    I’m afraid that without knowing the surface you are painting onto, I can’t really advise. The primary concern for painting is the adhesion of the first coat. If the first coat is not sticking correctly, anything else that goes on top is only as reliable as the dodgy base.

    A general point about testing paint adhesion and durability: so many times I see reports that after an hour xyz paint stuck like glue, or failed the scratch test miserably, or in your case, it wouldn’t wipe clean. Apart from shellac based paints which cure within 1-3 days, most paint needs about 28 days to cure, to reach their full potential.

    Scratch testing is also a complex subject and fingernails and screwdrivers raked across a touch dry but uncured paint surface can at best provide anecdotal evidence.

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