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A successful DIY kitchen painting project

Listed under Blog, hand-painted kitchen, Little Greene, Mythic paint, Owatrol, preparation Posted Oct 03 2012

Below is an example of how a keen DIY decorator asked for some tips, and successfully hand-painted their own laminate kitchen.

Hi

some time ago you gave me some advice, in order for me to paint my units. These were old Wickes Shaker laminated beech.

I have enclosed before and after photos on a small part of my kitchen

oak kitchen cabinets before painting

oak kitchen after painting

I took all your prep advice on board, took the doors off, and, I have to say, the finished result is far more than I could have expected. Its near perfect, no brush marks or flaws!

I used Dulux Supergrip Primer and Little Greene Oil Eggshell, mid and light Clay 50/50 mix.

This is the full article on painting a laminate kitchen, if any DIY painters are interested in replicating that work.

Most of the materials and tools are available from our recommended suppliers – recommended because their products work and their service is great.

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4 comments to “A successful DIY kitchen painting project”

  1. My Hand Painted Furniture Joseph and Son

    Very nice work my friend. Goes to show the results that can be achieved by homeowner using high quality equipment and materials. Fair play

  2. Andy Crichton Andy Crichton

    There are a few DIY who have had a go, so to speak, and been chuffed with the results of doing it under instruction. A bit of guidance, good kit and patience…

  3. elizabeth

    i want to paint my splasback its venner i was wondering what i need to do whats best paint and protecter thank you,

  4. Andy Crichton Andy Crichton

    I conferred with Holman Specialist Paints, because my first reaction to painting a splashback was Don’t. I know we talk about products like Owatrol ESP and various Zinsser primers on laminate, but really that isn’t in the context of full-on contact with water. Anyway, this is what Holmans advise.

    Our initial response is that a veneer splashback is not a very good idea as
    any liquid on the horizontal surface may migrate behind the timber and any
    coating applied if not totally sealed. (Best to use a clear toughened glass
    and paint the underside).

    Given it is a painted and providing the endgrain and base is totally sealed
    we would use our standard system of otex (probably two coats) and either
    Miranol high gloss or Furniture Paint for the satin finish.(Gloss would not
    show water residues as much) The key is to let the topcoat cure for at least
    7 days. If it was sprayed then either a two pack Acid Catalysed Enamel or
    Two Pack Polyurethane.

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