hand-painted kitchens
I can transform any kitchen with a traditional hand-painted finish.
Traditional oil eggshell paints are a favourite for the classic / country look. I prefer Little Greene Paint Company‘s English heritage range. Using specialist primers, I can achieve the same end result on timber and laminate / melamine.
(Please note: I do not use water-based paints on woodwork – ie the new Farrow and Ball range. If you prefer a modern painted look, Dulux are a good bet and if /or you are very hard on your kitchen, I would suggest you find a specialist company that sprays 2-pack acid-cat finishes.)
Recent examples of hand-painted kitchens »
Shaker kitchen painted with Little Greene Paint Company “Sand Piper”
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Kitchen painted with Farrow & Ball “Clunch”
Kitchen hand-painted and finished with a distressed paint effect
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How durable is a hand-painted finish »
In answer to the question, do hand-painted doors last? the answer is ‘yes’. Clients who take good care of their custom-painted kitchens get years of use out of them, and unlike sprayed or factory-finished examples, they look more authentic as time goes by. The kitchen top left was painted nearly 12 years ago now.
What to expect when I hand-paint your kitchen »
Empty kitchen
With the best will (and extraction sander) in the world, dust will find its way inside cupboards. Therefore, before I start work, I ask that all the kitchen cupboards are emptied.
Dust sheets on steroids
I use sturdy paper and plastic to fully sheet up the floor, worktops, appliances, and any furniture in the kitchen. (If necessary, the coverings to the oven / hob / sink can be removed / taped out the way at the end of the day so you can have access to the basics.)
Labelling
Next stage is to remove doors and drawer fronts. I label doors and cupboards and even hinges, to make sure everything goes back in exactly the same way as I take it out.
Prepare woodwork
I prepare all the end panels, cornice and plinths first, before moving on to the doors and drawer fronts. I then paint the frames etc first so they are dried off before the doors and drawers. This eliminates sticking problems.
This shows the primer and undercoat stages on a previously unpainted kitchen door.
Clean up
Once everything has been painted to completion, I remove all masking tape, clean and buff up hinges and glass panels, rehang doors and drawers, replace handles and tweak the hinges so that everything lines up as well as possible and nothing jams.
The floor coverings and worktops are cleared and cleaned up and left as I found them.
Wait
I recommend that customers hold off for a few days before loading the units and using the kitchen full tilt. Oil paint dries by oxidation, so it skins over and is touch dry within 16 hours, but can take up to a month to dry throughout its thickness. Therefore, the longer the paint can harden off, the better it will last.
More detail about masking up and protecting floors, appliances etc »
Quotes and ideas are free, just call or email and I will do my best to help you.
With additional touches such as new handles, new work tops, a different floor tile, or fine-tuning your current layout, we can upgrade any functional kitchen without the uproar of starting from scratch.
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